Читаем без скачивания Fashionopolis. Цена быстрой моды и будущее одежды - Дана Томас
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115
“Has the Fast Fashion Cycle Created an Ex-Post Licensing System?” Fashion Law, August 13, 2015.
116
Harry Wallop, “Primark Profits Fall on High Cotton Prices,” Telegraph, November 8, 2011, https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/8876145/Primark-profits-fall-on-high-cotton-prices.html.
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Интервью, данное Мар Мартинес автору, Лос-Анджелес, 10 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Мартинес происходят из этого интервью, если не указано иное.
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Интервью, данное Илсе Метчек автору, Лос-Анджелес, 6 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Метчек происходят из этого интервью, если не указано иное.
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Мартинес, интервью, данное автору.
120
George White, “Workers Held in Near-Slavery, Officials Say,” Los Angeles Times, August 3, 1995.
121
Janna Shadduck-Hernández, Marissa Nuncio, Zacil Pech, Mar Martinez, Dirty Threads, Dangerous Factories: Health and Safety in Los Angeles’ Fashion Industry,” UCLA Labor Center, 2016, https://www.labor.ucla.edu/publication/dirty-threads-dangerous-factories-health-and-safety-in-los-angeles-fashion-industry/.
122
Natalie Kitroeff and Victoria Kim, “Behind a $13 Shirt, a $6-an-Hour Worker”, Los Angeles Times, August 31, 2017, https://www.latimes.com/projects/fi-forever-21-factory-workers/.
123
Ben Bergman, “Labor Department Investigation Finds 85 Percent of LA Garment Factories Break Wage Rules,” 89.3 KPCC, November 17, 2016, https://www.scpr.org/news/2016/11/17/66200/labor-department-investigation-finds-85-percent-of/.
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Jason McGahan, “L.A. Fashion District a Fire Trap for Garment Workers, Study Finds,” L.A. Weekly, December 12, 2016.
125
Не использующие потогонные производства. – Прим. пер.
126
Marx Engels Collected Works, Volume 38 (New York: International Publishers, 1846), 95, http://hiaw.org/defcon6/works/1846/letters/46_12_28.html. Здесь и далее цитаты К. Маркса и Ф. Энгельса приводятся по собранию сочинений К. Маркса и Ф. Энгельса (Изд. 2. М.: Госполитиздат, 1955).
127
Friedrich Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1993), 75.
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Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (New York: Penguin 2005), 103.
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Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England, 118.
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Engels, 138.
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Engels, 152.
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Engels, 164–166.
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Engels, 173–175.
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Engels, 170–173.
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Engels, 182.
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Engels, 283.
137
Nancy C. Carnevale, “Culture of Work: Italian Immigrant Women Homeworkers in the New York City Garment Industry, 1890-1914,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New York: Fordham University Press, 2005), 164.
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US House of Representatives, 52nd Congress, 2nd Session, “Report of the Committee of Manufactures on the Sweating System” Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, January 20, 1893).
139
Eileen Boris, “Social Responsibility on a Global Level: The National Consumers League, Fair Labor, and Worker Rights at Century’s End,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New Fordham University Press, 2005), 214–16.
140
Marlis Schweitzer, When Broadway Was the Runway: Theater, Fashion, and American Culture (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2009), 75.
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Boris, “Social Responsibility on a Global Level,” 215.
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Boris, 215.
143
David Von Drehle, Triangle: The Fire That Changed America (New York: Grove Press, 2004), 167.
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Blass and Horyn, Bare Blass, 19–22.
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Blass and Horyn, 11.
146
“Fred Pomrantz, Founder of a Women’s Wear Daily,” The New York Times, February 21, 1986, https://www.nytimes.com/1986/02/21/obituaries/fred-pomrantz-founder-of-a-women-s-wear-daily.html.
147
Bernice Kanner, “Scandal on Seventh Avenue,” New York, June 23, 1993.
148
Teri Agins, “Loose Threads: Dressmaker Leslie Fay Is an Old-Style Firm That’s in a Modern Fix,” The Wall Street Journal, February 23, 1993.
149
Kanner, “Scandal on Seventh Avenue,” 40.
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Kanner, 42.
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Kanner, 47.
152
David Silverman, “What Leslie Fay’s Former CEO Learned From His Company’s Bankruptcy,” Harvard Business Review, April 20, 2010, https://hbr.org/2010/04/what-john-pomerantz-former-ceo.
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Bob Herbert, “In America; Leslie Fay’s Logic,” The New York Times, June 19, 1994, https://www.nytimes.com/1994/06/19/opinion/in-america-leslie-fay-s-logic.html.
154
Lance Compa and Tashia Hinchliffe-Darricarrère, “Enforcing International Labor Rights Through Corporate Codes of Conduct,” Columbia Journal of Transnational Law, 1995, 676, https://digitalcommons.ilr.cornell.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?referer=https://www.google.com/&httpsredir=1&article=1178&context=articles.
155
Bob Ortega, In Sam We Trust: The Untold Story of Sam Walton and How Walmart Is Devouring America (New York: Times Books, 1998), 245.
156
Frank Swoboda, “Sears Agrees to Police Its Suppliers,” Washington Post, March 31, 1992, https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/business/1992/03/31/sears-agrees-to-police-its-suppliers/636ef744-6794-4780-a984-2f9c293da6c7/.
157
Karl Schoenberger, Levi’s Children: Coming to Terms with Human Rights in the Global Marketplace (New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2000), 57.
158
Swoboda, “Sears Agrees to Police Its Suppliers.”
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Schoenberger, Levi’s Children, 65.
160
Alexandra Harney, The China Price: The True Cost of Chinese Competitive Advantage (New York: Penguin Press, 2008), 197–99.
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“Southeast Textiles, S.A. (SETISA) Choloma, Cortes, Honduras” New York: National Labor Committee, October 2003.
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“Southeast Textiles, S.A. (SETISA) Choloma, Cortes, Honduras.”
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“Are We Exporting