American Jobs?” Senate Democratic Policy Committee Hearing, U.S. Senate, November 14, 2003, https://www.dpc.senate.gov/hearings/hearing7/gonzales.pdf.
164
“Major Turn-Around at Sean P. Diddy Combs’ Factory SETISA Honduras,” National Labor Committee, December 17, 2003.
165
“Are We Exporting American Jobs?” Senate Democratic Policy Committee Hearing.
166
Ibrahim Hossain Ovi, “RMG Exports Saw 8.76 Percent Growth Last Fiscal Year,” Dhaka Tribune, July 5, 2018, https://www.dhakatribune.com/business/2018/07/05/rmg-exports-saw-8-76-growth-last-fiscal-year.
167
Refayet Ullah Mirdha, “Bangladesh Remains the Second Biggest Apparel Exporter,” Daily Star, August 2, 2018, https://www.thedailystar.net/business/export/bangladesh-remains-the-second-biggest-apparel-exporter-1614856.
168
Интервью, данное Сиддикуром Рахманом автору, Дакка, Бангладеш, 21 апреля 2018 г.
169
Интервью, данное Джуди Герхард автору, Вашингтон (округ Колумбия), 25 января 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Герхард происходят из этого интервью, телефонных звонков или электронных писем, если не указано иное.
170
“Spectrum Collapse: Eight Years on and Still Little Action on Safety,” cleanclothes.org, April 10, 2013, https://cleanclothes.org/news/2013/04/11/spectrum-collapse-eight-years-on-and-still-little-action-on-safety.
171
Крупнейшее международное объединение организаций и профессиональных союзов, занимающееся вопросами улучшения условий труда в швейной отрасли. – Прим. ред.
172
Интервью, данное Лианой Фоксвог автору в скайпе, апрель 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Фоксвог происходят из этого интервью, если не указано иное.
173
Björn Claeson, “Deadly Secrets,” International Labor Rights Forum, December 2012, 22.
174
Saad Hammadi and Matthew Taylor, “Workers Jump to Their Deaths as Fire Engulfs Factory Making Clothes for Gap,” The Guardian, December 14, 2010, https://www.theguardian.com/world/2010/dec/14/bangladesh-clothes-factory-workers-jump-to-death.
175
Интервью, данное Скоттом Нова автору в скайпе 16 апреля 2018 г.
176
Tyler McCall, “Fashioning Workers’ Rights for Women,” Fashionista, May 10, 2013, https://fashionista.com/2013/05/from-the-runways-of-new-york-to-the-factories-of-dhaka-fashioning-workers-rights-for-women.
177
“Survivor of Bangladesh’s Tazreen Factory Fire Urges U.S. Retailers to Stop Blocking Worker Safety,” Democracy Now, April 25, 2013, https://www.democracynow.org/2013/4/25/survivor_of_bangladeshstazreen_factory_fire.
178
Liana Foxvog et al., “Still Waiting,” Clean Clothes Campaign International Labor Rights Forum, 2013.
179
Jim Yardley, “The Most Hated Bangladeshi, Toppled from a Shady Empire,” The New York Times, April 30, 2013, https://www.nytimes.com/201305/01/world/asia/bangladesh-garment-industry-reliant-on-flimsy-oversight.html.
180
Интервью, данное Шилой Бегум автору, Савар, Бангладеш, 23 апреля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Бегум происходят из этого интервью.
181
Yardley, “The Most Hated Bangladeshi, Toppled from a Shady Empire”.
182
Интервью, данное Махмадалом Хассаном Хридоем автору, Савар, Бангладеш, 23 апреля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Хридоя происходят из этого интервью.
183
Marianna Kerppola et al., “H&M’s Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast Fashion,” University of Michigan, February 8, 2014.
184
“H&M: Comment on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh,” H&M, May 7, 2013.
185
Foxvog et al., “Still Waiting.”
186
Lauren McCauley, “Critics Blast US Retailers’ Corporate-Dominated Factory Safety ‘Sham,’ ” Common Dreams, July 11, 2013.
187
Stephanie Clifford, “That ‘Made in the U.S.A.’ Premium,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 30, 2013.
188
Paul M. Barrett, Dorothée Baumann-Pauly, and April Gu, “Five Years After Rana Plaza: The Way Forward” (NYC Stern Center for Business and Human Rights, April 2018), 2, https://issuu.com/nyusterncenterforbusinessandhumanri/docs/nyu_bangladesh_ranaplaza_final_rele?e=31640827/64580941.
189
Многократные попытки связаться с каждым из этих брендов и получить комментарий или подтверждение остались безуспешными.
190
Попытки получить подтверждение у Camaïeu и Roadrunner были безуспешными; CJ Apparel заявила, что не размещает заказы в Бангладеш.
191
“Four Years Since the Tazreen Factory Fire: Justice Only Half Done,” Clean Clothes Campaign, November 24, 2016, https://cleanclothes.org/news/2016/11/24/four-years-since-the-tazreen-factory-fire-justice-only-half-done.
192
Md Sanaul Islam Tipu, “No Significant Progress in Trial Six Years After Tazreen Fashions Fire,” Dhaka Tribune, November 23, 2018, www.dhakatribune.com/bangladesh/2018/11/23/no-significant-progress-trial-six-years-after-tazreen-fashions-fire.
193
“Rana Plaza Owner, 17 Others Indicted,” Daily Star, June 15, 2016, https://www.thedailystar.net/frontpage/rana-plaza-owner-17-others-indicted-1239742.
194
“Rana Plaza Owner Jailed for Three Years Over Corruption,” Al jazeera.com, August 29, 2017, https://aljazeera.com/news/2017/08/rana-plaza-owner-jailed-years-corruption-170829161742916.html.
195
Andrew Marszal and Chris Graham, “Twenty Hostages Killed in ‘Isil’ Attack on Dhaka Restaurant Popular with Foreigners,” Telegraph, July 2, 2016, https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/07/01/gunmen-attack-restaurant-in-diplomatic-quarter-bangladeshi-ca/.
196
Anbarasan Ethirajan, “Islamic Attack Has Bangladesh Clothing Industry on Edge,” BBC News, August 17, 2016, https://www.bbc.com/news/business-36904696.
197
Maria Zimmermann, “Bangladesh: Sewing Fulltime for 61 Euros a Month,” dw.com, April 23, 2017, https://www.dw.com/en/bangladesh-sewing-full-time-for-61-euros-a-month/a-38553216.
198
Интервью, данное Марком Эннером автору в скайпе 18 апреля 2018 г.
199
Catherine Salfino, “In With the Old, In With the New,” Cotton Lifestyle Monitor, January 16, 2012, https://lifestylemonitor.cottoninc.com/in-with-the-old-in-with-the-new/.
200
Kathleen Webber, “How Fast Fashion Is Killing Rivers Worldwide,” EcoWatch, March 22, 2017, https://www.ecowatch.com/fast-fashion-riverblue-2318389169.html.
201
Emma McClendon, Denim: Fashion’s Frontier (New York: Fashion Institute of Technology, 2016), 11.
202
Herodotus, The History of Herodotus, (New York: D. Appleton, 1889), 410.
203
James Augustin Brown Scherer, Cotton as a World Power: A Study in the Economic Interpretation of History (New York: Frederick A. Stokes, 1916), 6.
204
Clinton G. Gilroy, The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances (New York: Harper and Brothers, 1845), 322.
205
The History of Cotton (Virginia Beach: Donning Company, 2015), 11.
206
James Johnson, Stephen MacDonald, Leslie
