Читаем без скачивания Fashionopolis. Цена быстрой моды и будущее одежды - Дана Томас
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207
“World Cotton Market,” Cotton Australia, n.d., https://cottonaustralia.com.au/cotton-library/fact-sheets/cotton-the-world-cotton-market.
208
“U.S. Currency: How Money is Made – Paper and Ink,” Bureau of Engraving and Printing, U.S. Department the Treasure, n.d., https://www.moneyfactory.gov/hmimpaperandink.html.
209
Stacy Howell, “How Much of the World’s Clothing Is Made from Cotton?” Livestrong, July 21, 2015.
210
“The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton,” Environmental Justice Foundation, December 31, 2007.
211
Katy Willis, “Cotton’s Dirty Secret: Are You Wearing This Toxic Crop?” Timetocleanse.com, March 4, 2015, https://www.timetocleanse.com/cottons-dirty-secret/.
212
Melody Meyer, “Dig Deeper, Chemical Cotton,” Rodale Institute, February 4, 2014, www.organicconsumers.org/news/chemical-cotton.
213
Stephen Leahy, “World Water Day: The Cost of Cotton in Water-Challenged India”, The Guardian, March 20, 2015, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2015/mar/20/cost-cotton-water-challenged-india-world-water-day.
214
Rhonda P. Hill, “1,000 Gallons of Water,” Edge, August 27, 2016, https://edgexpo.com/2016/08/27/1000-gallons-of-water/.
215
John Kerr and John Landry, “The Pulse of the Fashion Industry,” Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda, May 2017, 11.
216
Англ. self-edge, откуда, по созвучию, «селвидж». – Прим. пер.
217
Jenny Balfour-Paul, Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans (Buffalo, NY: Firefly, 2012), 69.
218
Balfour-Paul, 60.
219
Lynn Downey, Levi Strauss: The Man Who Gave Blue Jeans to the World (Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press, 2016), 116.
220
Downey, 137.
221
Интервью, данное Трейси Панек автору, Сан-Франциско, 13 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Панек происходят из этого интервью.
222
Downey, Levi Strauss, 141, 192.
223
Downey, 239.
224
Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (New York: Penguin, 2014), 110.
225
Англ. in proximity – «вблизи», «по соседству». – Прим. пер.
226
Улица на Манхэттене, где сконцентрированы офисы ведущих рекламных агентств и фешенебельные магазины. – Прим. пер.
227
Isabel Wilkinson, “The Story Behind Brooke Shields’s Famous Calvin Klein Jeans,” T: The New York Times Style Magazine, December 2, 2015, https://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/02/t-magazine/fashion/brooke-shields-calvin-klein-jeans-ad-eighties.html.
228
Wilkinson, “The Story Behind Brooke Shields’s Famous Calvin Klein Jeans.”
229
Matt W. Cody, Calvin Klein (New York: Chelsea House, 2013).
230
Yafa, Cotton, 230.
231
Yafa, 216.
232
McClendon, Denim, 146.
233
Akhi Akter, “Vietnamese Textile and Apparel Industry Moving Towards US$50 Billion by 2020,” Textile Today, February 3, 2018, https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/vietnamese-textile-apparel-industry-moving-towards-us50-billion-2020/.
234
“Production Value of Denim Jeans in Vietnam from 2012 to 2021,” Statista.com, n.d., https://www.statista.com/statistics/743835/denim-jeans-production-value-vietnam.
235
George Ayompe, “The ‘True Denim Capital of the World,’ Is a Disgrace to the Industry,” Aetuba.com, February 12, 2017, https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/true-denim-capital-world-disgrace-industry-we-should-act-ayompe/.
236
Интервью, данное Салли Фокс автору, Брукс, Калифорния, 14 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Фокс происходят из этого интервью, телефонных звонков или электронных писем, если не указано иное.
237
Соответственно 0,4; 2 и 4,5 га. – Прим. пер.
238
Ок. 40 500 га. – Прим. пер.
239
Caroline Fairchild, “Does Levi Strauss Still Fit America?” Fortune, October 6, 2014, http://fortune.com/2014/09/18/levi-strauss-chip-bergh/.
240
Karl Schoenberger, Levi’s Children: Coming to Terms with Human Rights in the Marketplace (New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2000), 25–31.
241
Robert Howard, “Values Make the Company: An Interview with Robert Haas,” Harvard Business Review, October 1990, https://hbr.org/1990/09/values-make-the-company-an-interview-with-robert-haas.
242
Teri Agins and Joann S. Lublin, “Levi Strauss Sees Philip Marineau As a Right Fit to Be Brand Builder,” The Wall Street Journal, September 8, 1999, https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB93674980745078128.
243
Nina Munk, “How Levi’s Trashed a Great American Brand,” Fortune, April 12, 1999, http://archive.fortune.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/1999/04/12/258131/index.htm.
244
“Spotlight: Belgian Strike Protests Levi Strauss Plant Closings,” Los Angeles Times, October 2, 1998.
245
Интервью, данное Аннабель Николс автору, Нэшвилл, 21 августа 2016 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Николс происходят из этого интервью.
246
Suzanne Coile, “Levi’s Strauss Plant,” Our Life at Work, December 6, 2012.
247
“Back in the Day: Halting Those Denim Blues,” Knoxville News Sentinel, October 5, 2014, http://archive.knoxnews.com/business/back-in-the-day-halting-those-denim-blues-ep-648080710-354171531.html.
248
Coile, “Levi’s Strauss Plant.”
249
Выборы в федеральные органы власти США проходят ежегодно в ноябре, дата назначается федеральным правительством на вторник после первого понедельника ноября. – Прим. пер.
250
“Levi to Close 11 Plants, Cut a Third of Jobs,” Associated Press, November 4, 1997.
251
“Levi to Close 11 Plants, Cut a Third of Jobs.”
252
Coile, “Levi’s Strauss Plant.”
253
Schoenberger, Levi’s Children, 162.
254
Amy Doan, “Levi Strauss’ Frayed Fortunes,” Forbes, September 29, 2000.
255
Schoenberger, Levi’s Children, 54.
256
Agins and Lublin, “Levi Strauss Sees Philip Marineau as a Right Fit to Be Brand Builder.”
